Day 31 Aruza

We are getting so close now- anxious to get to the end and enjoy a few days socializing with everyone we have met over the past few weeks. We had a good day with better weather (some sunshine) and have only 2 days left (about 40k). The trails are more crowded with a lot of short distance walkers and many more albergues and hostels so everyone is more spread out. Our shoes and socks have holes in them so it is good we are getting to the end. 

We found out these are for storing fruits and vegetables

Sculpture pointing "the way"

On the trail

Through the forest

Well

This was made into a mailbox on the left (caritas) and bread delivery (pan) on the right. :-)

Day 30 Palas. De Rei

Oh happy day- no rain today and even some sunshine. A little warmer too with an improved forecast. We had a great walk but my blisters returned today. They have a great product called compeed for blisters here which helps a lot. We have walked so many miles that our shoes are starting to fall apart- Brad has two holes in his left shoe and the soles are wearing out too. Hopefully they will last 3 more days! We continue to meet so many great people every day and we run into old friends at every turn-this has been amazing.

How about my cafe con leche today- he should work at Starbucks!

Along the trail today

We haven't figured out what these are yet  but I have been asking- they are unique to Galicia.

Coffee break on the trail

Statue outside of the church in Palas de Rei- we visited the church and listened to music

Day 29 Portomarin

Unfortunately the rain continued all day today with lots of mud and slippery trails. I managed to slip and fall onto my left knee on the pavement twice today! Just a scrape and bruise and a bit embarrassed- hadn't fallen before...

Anyway the weather is supposed to improve over the next few days. My Spanish is improving and Brad has been practicing too. Galicia is beautiful and green- many say it looks like Ireland- it does have Celtic roots and the dialect is different. Seafood- especially pulpo (octopus) is on every menu. There are even octopus delivery trucks. We have tried it- it can be a bit chewy.

Follow the yellow arrow up the stairs

These little elevated buildings are on every farm but we don't know why- some have crosses on top

Trail on one side- stream on the other

We made it to the 100k marker

Brad on another trail/ stream option

The cows came down the trail- they leave a trail of their own!

This guy was quite a surprise today

Crossing the lake to Portomarin

Romanesque church of San Nicolas in Portomarin

Day 28 Sarria

Off in pouring rain this morning and lots of mud again! The rain stopped mid morning and now it is partly cloudy. We had a good day and have made it to Sarria and just over a 100k to Santiago. We are having a co-op dinner with some friends from around the world- hamburgers cooked on the albergue kitchen. Everyone is getting excited about getting to the end and also a little sad. It should be a great party in Santiago!

At our albergue this morning-133k to Santiago!

The Camino trail through the forest this morning

Rock bridge across the river 

The door to the albergue in Sarria

The Rio Sarria running through downtown Sarria

Day 27 Fillobal (Triacastela)

We climbed up and over the mountain this morning- a steep 5k to start the day- cold but clear- beautiful sunrise and wonderful views into the valleys from the top. With Santiago only 6 days away the trails are getting busier- bus loads of day packers are "released" at different towns and you can come around a bend and suddenly run into a jam. It really bothers some but it is part of this part of the Camino- it will be increasingly busier as we approach Santiago- to get your compostella you need only complete the last 100k- the quiet days of solitude on the Meseta and in the mountains are behind us.

Pilgrim statue at our albergue yesterday 

Iglesia San Andre in La Faba next to the albergue

We crossed into Galicia this morning- unfortunately Spain has a problem with graffiti on almost everything- only the churches seem to escape it 

This beautiful little church in Hospital de la Condesa - Iglesia St Juan- has lavender heather growing on the tower- beautiful in the morning sunshine

Heather blooming on bell tower

Day 26 La Faba

We climbed back into the mountains today and are spending the night in a tiny town about half way up the mountain. The albergue is run by the German confraterity of St James. Ulrike, the German woman in charge is tough but very funny- she was giving Brad a hard time for awhile until he announced "English" and she laughed. Our walk today was very nice although very steep the last 3-4k. Very steep tomorrow morning and then a long downhill into the area of Spain called Galicia. This will be a more coastal climate. We getting closer to Santiago- planning on arriving on June 2 and meeting up with many of the pilgrims we have met the past few weeks.

Looking back down the valley to Villafranca del Bierzo

Almost everyone has a huge garden near their house

We passed this home this morning- see the bread hanging on the door? The bread man drives around delivering bread and honking his horn

This is a field of solar panels

Some homes need a bit of remodeling but many are still occupied

Day 25 Villafranca del Bierzo

The weather is much improved, warmer and mostly sunshine today. Everyday is different and you never know how the body is going to feel. Some days you just feel stronger. The universal sign of the pilgrim is the "camino shuffle" that everyone does at the end of the day after the boots come off- the feet are always sore and you see everyone around town shuffling along- taking it easy on the feet- especially after sitting for a few minutes. Amazing that by the next morning things have greatly improved and off we go again. Last night we stayed up and watched the European soccer championship final between the two Madrid teams with the locals at the bar in our hostel- it was great fun with a lot of yelling and hollering- we went to bed but they stayed up until very late celebrating! Tomorrow a big climb up another mountain and into Galicia.

Beautiful walk through grape vineyards

Medieval bridge

Beautiful gardens in center of town

One of the many stone streets- hard to walk on!

Every town has many old churches

Day 24 Over the mountains to Ponferrada

We had a wonderful pilgrim dinner last night (the family made paella) with people from Iceland, Finland, Canada, and Italy. Up early and left before 7- cold and foggy but no wind. We climbed to Cruz de Ferro where tradionally you leave a rock at the cross to symbolize leaving behind your sins or past problems- it is an emotional day for many. Then the trail drops from 1550m to 500m over the next 10k- rocky trails and hard on the knees. We walked into sunshine and the city of Ponferrada. Only 9 days to Santiago!

Paella!

Paella dinner

Cruz de Ferro

Walking past mountain village of Manjarin

Outdoor latrine in Manjarin with view of the valley

Coming down from the mountains

Castle of Ponferrada

View out of the castle 

Locals gathering in early evening socializing near the square

We were sitting in the square across from the basilica when a wedding started!